I was blessed with beautiful skin growing up. I thought I was one of the lucky ones who would emerge from adolescence unscathed by problem skin. Little did I know, I’d turn 22 and have to suffer through adult acne for years. UGH.
Being a makeup artist and general beauty junkie, I have tried so many different types of products and brands in my quest for good, clear skin. I found some hits but also fought through some major misses along the way, but in my mid 20s I found a routine that worked fairly well for me. I was getting a couple pimples a month, but nothing crazy – so I continued that routine for awhile.
About 7 months ago at the ripe age of 27, I had one of the worst breakouts of my life, primarily on my chin in the form of cystic acne. I relied on skincare wisdom I’d picked up over the years and committed to some popular products in the clean beauty space – which were heavily oil-based – to help.
Mistake.
My skin FLIPPED THE EFF OUT and turned into acne and periorificial dermatitis, which is a mind-numbingly annoying combination because treating one can really irritate the other.
Around this same time, I gave up botox and also started noticing some premature aging setting in. I am not someone who is scared of aging whatsoever, but I do intend to do it as gracefully as possible, so I was a bit alarmed by the dullness and fine lines that were creeping in.
I went to the derm, was prescribed antibiotics, and told to go as close to oil-free with my skincare as possible. Given that I prioritize clean products, that would prove to be a huge challenge; I swear 90% of the skincare produced by independent clean beauty brands is oil based and every influencer is obsessed with layering oil on top of oil on top of oil.
Luckily, I was able to find clean products that were mostly water-based.
My skin reacted positively to my new routine and medication, but I still struggled with cystic acne on my chin and jaw. I added in one extra product that was oil-based (hello, Everything Oil!), and I’ve found this combination to be my holy grail routine. Texture? Diminished. Breakouts? Rare. Hydration? Optimal.
Below are the deets on my faves that helped me achieve this transformation. I am fully aware that most of these products are, in the words of KathleenLights, “ESSSSPENSIVE”. I didn’t intend to end up with products that were expensive and I definitely don’t buy into the idea that expensive = better, but that’s just how the cookie crumbled for this post. That being said, I included links to some similar, more affordable products with good reviews. If an item has an asterisk (*) next to it, I have not personally used it and therefore can’t personally vouch for the performance of it.
Disclaimer: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you purchase off of an affiliate link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
FIRST CLEANSE
For the double cleansing uninitiated, the concept is exactly what it sounds like: a first cleanse that will be followed by a second cleanse. I highly encourage you to double cleanse, even if you just use your actual cleanser twice. The goal is that this step, paired with a second cleanse, breaks down all makeup, SPF, silicones, sweat, etc. to the point that no visible residue comes off on the towel when drying off your face at the end of your skincare routine. You’d be shocked at how many people struggle with problem skin simply because they don’t fully cleanse.
Luzern Micellar Water – $60 full size
Micellar waters are named such because they are thin waters with micelles of oils and other makeup-dissolving emollients suspended within. Simply sweep over skin to easily remove the bulk of makeup and grime sitting on top of the skin. This one in particular has the cleanest ingredients I’ve found in a micellar water and leaves minimal oily residue afterward. Love!
Farmacy Makeup Meltaway Balm – $22 mini, $34 full size
An incredible makeup removing cleansing balm, it applies thick and emulsifies into a thin liquid before rinsing clean, taking makeup and other ick down the drain with it. Doesn’t sting the eyes and isn’t super oily.
CLOVE + HALLOW Makeup Melt – $29 full size
Another makeup removing balm, Makeup Melt is thicker and more emollient, and therefore better suited to dry skin. It breaks down super tough makeup like long-wear liquid lipsticks incredibly well and makes a great multipurpose product on cuticles, flyaways, etc. It is coconut based though, so if you have a coconut oil sensitivity, avoid this.
Plain jojoba or grapeseed oil – $8
A few drops of any simple oil will be sufficient for a pre-cleanse, but jojoba and grapeseed oil are my top picks. For those of you who are prone to acne, I would go with grapeseed. Simply massage into dry skin, rinse, and then follow immediately with second cleanse. Voila.
Burts Bees Cleansing Oil* – $15.29
I’ve not tried this, but it has great reviews and is very accessible since it is sold on/at Target, Amazon, major drugstores, etc.
SECOND CLEANSE
As mentioned before, this is the cleansing step most people are familiar with. Using a typical cleanser, you go in and wash away any leftover product from the first cleanse. I promise you, adopting a first and second cleanse will change your skin for the better as long as you aren’t using a drying, stripping cleanser. (If your skin feels tight after rinsing off, it’s a stripping cleanser and I would recommend switching.)
Indie Lee Brightening Cleanser – $34 full size
This is my daily go-to cleanser. I’ve repurchased probably 4 bottles thus far and will continue to repurchase. It’s gentle, non-drying, and smells nice. That’s really all I ask for in a cleanser, but if you prefer a cleanser that has a full lather, this isn’t for you.
Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser – $42 full size
A staple in my bathroom, this isn’t my go-to daily cleanser but I make sure I never run out. It’s great for when your skin is really acting up without being overly drying, and would be a great daily cleanser for most people. It also leave a nice cooling/minty feel on the skin.
Herbivore Blue Clay Cleansing Soap* – $12 full size
I haven’t used this particular bar soap but the reviews are solid and I do like bar facial soaps when they are formulated to not dry out the skin, like this one is. Worth a shot. Plus, bar soaps are very eco-friendly 😉
TONER
Toning is a nice step in between cleansing and applying the rest of your products to your skin, but honestly, it isn’t super necessary. There are a lot of myths out there about it rebalancing your pH, but that’s not entirely true. What it does is prepare your skin for the rest of your products. Personally, I don’t think anybody NEEDS a toner, but lucky for you, I only have one pick for this category and it’s a cheapie so I will share it!
Thayers Alcohol Free Witch Hazel – $8 full size
Since I don’t fully get behind toner, I don’t believe in shelling out $$$ for it. Plus, this tried-and-true classic does the job just fine. Alcohol free so it’s non-drying, you can easily pick it up at literally any mass store like Target, Walmart, drugstores, etc.
SERUMS
Oh man, I love serums. In fact, this may be my favorite category. Serums are typically water-based liquids that treat your skin to extra hydration and a dose of actives, depending on what its purpose is (vitamin c, refining, hydration, soothing, etc.) You’ll know when you find a good serum because you will see an obvious difference in your skin.
Luzern Absolut Recovery – $100 full size
This is one of my favorite serums of all time. It is meant for sensitized, irritated skin, so if you deal with acne, rosacea, or other inflamed skin conditions, this would be a good choice. I also find that it pairs really well with all of my acid exfoliators (more on that later) to reduce stinging or redness.
Agent Nateur Holi(water) – $88 full size
This is a great water serum with hyaluronic acid and crushed pearl powder. It really does plump and hydrate the skin, to the point that, in a pinch, I can get away with using it in place of a moisturizer too.
Peach & Lily Glass Skin Refining Serum* – $34 full size
I have not personally tried this but have heard so many glowing endorsements from people I know and trust that I feel comfortable recommending it. Plus, the reviews are wonderful.
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5* – $7 full size
Another product I have not tried, The Ordinary is pretty famous for getting rid of the steep markup of other brands and making simple, straightforward products that pack a punch. This one has great reviews too.
Agent Nateur Holi(C) – $120 full size
An innovative delivery system for vitamin c, this is a pure powder that is activated with water. It can also easily be mixed with some water into your moisturizer, SPF, or serums – is typically how I use it. I find this vitamin c to be effective and travel friendly since it is powdered!
So you know, vitamin c is amazing for refining skin, aging more gracefully, and evening your skin tone. You want to use a vitamin c serum in the morning before you apply your SPF. It can be layered over another serum if you’d like, but you don’t use vitamin c serums at night.
Luzern Serum Absolut V15 – $175 full size
This serum is a newer addition to my arsenal, but so far I am really liking it. I notice a textural and plumpness difference in my skin when I use it versus when I don’t.
MOISTURIZERS
A crucial step in every skincare routine (yes you read that right, moisturizer is not just for people with dry skin), moisturizer is typically an emulsion of water with emollients, humectants, and sometimes even actives. The goal is to provide moisture, hydration, and nourishment. No matter what some dumb dumb on YouTube tells you to do with your acne-prone skin, DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP PLEASE AND THANK YOU.
Luzern Force de Vie Lotion – $100 full size
You will have to pry this face lotion from my cold, dead hands. That’s how much I love it. It is the BEST face moisturizer I’ve ever used and bonus points because it’s SUPER low oil. Smoothing, soothing, hydrating…ugh it’s just so good, and other than cyclomethicone which I usually try to avoid, the ingredients are super clean. I have three bottles in my cabinet right now because as I write this we are still in COVID19 lockdown and I am terrified of running out. Read that again: I spent $300 extra dollars to make sure I don’t run out. That’s the biggest endorsement I can give.
Osmia Organics Purely Simple – $60 full size
This is a beloved staple in the clean beauty world. It is so incredibly gentle and light and it plays well with even the most temperamental skin; I would say it’s kind of like a clean, more effective and luxurious version of a Cerave face lotion. The only drawback for me is it doesn’t play nice with every foundation that I use throughout a given month, but that isn’t a problem for most people who rotate between just a couple complexion products.
Eminence Organics Arctic Berry Peptide – $90 full size
I got this face cream fo’ free in a goodie bag and was blown away. First of all, it smells amazing. Secondly, it was deeply hydrating and smoothing without being oily or greasy, and that can be a hard combo to achieve. Solid face cream in my book.
Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer – $59 full size
In the same family as the Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser I talked about already, this is a great simple moisturizer for problem or oily skin. Again, it leaves a minty freshness on the skin which is nice.
Simple Kind to Skin Replenishing Rich Moisturizer* – $9 full size
I have not used this, but it has a ton of 4 and 5 star reviews online and a decent ingredient deck. That is enough for me to suggest it here for those of you looking for something super affordable, clean(ish), and accessible at mass shopping stores.
Neutrogena HydroBoost Water Gel Moisturizer* – $15 full size
I haven’t tried this and personally wouldn’t use it because there are a couple ingredients in it that I avoid but I recognize that not everybody reading this is as picky as I am about ingredients. This product has been recommended to me so many times by friends and family and beauty experts that I think it’s safe to assume that it’s a good buy. And oil-free too!
FACIAL OILS
A great final step for your complexion, a facial oil will provide additional nourishment and moisture while locking in any water-based hydration that you added with your toner, serum, and moisturizer. How? Well, water and oil don’t mix, so you’re effectively “sealing in” the water hydration from earlier in your routine by layering oil on top that the water can’t pass through. For some people, a facial oil also serves as their moisturizer, but in my opinion, using an actual moisturizer followed by an oil is best.
CLOVE + HALLOW The Everything Oil – $28 full size
Okay, I don’t want to be too biased here but this is the best damn facial oil on the planet. Why? Because I designed it specifically for my skin, and my skin is problematic as hell. The four ingredients were specifically chosen due to their fatty acid, vitamin, and mineral compositions, and combine to form a lightweight oil that dries down quickly so you’re not an oily, greasy mess. Lightweight, yes, but don’t get it twisted – it is powerful and does a little bit of everything. Organic black cumin seed and rosehip oils aggressively refine, soothe, and decongest irritated, inflamed, acneic, sensitive, and/or hyper-oily skin.
Indie Lee Squalane Facial Oil – $34 full size
Technically squalane – the only ingredient in this product – isn’t an oil, but it’s close enough and fits best in the facial oils category. I like this product a lot. Squalane is super easy to work with – it sinks in easily, is non-comedogenic and non-irritating, and gives just the right amount of slip and moisture to the skin. I’m a fan.
Pixi Rose Blend Oil* – $25 full size
I haven’t used this, but it’s got good reviews, good ingredients, and it is available at your local drugstores.
EYE CREAMS
This is probably the category I am most picky about. Too heavy, and my undereye area gets congested with little bumps; too light, and my undereye skin gets crepe-y and flaky; too oily and my makeup slides around everywhere. It’s a delicate balance.
Pro tip: mix a teeny tiny amount of low-strength retinol into your eye cream to really target fine lines and reduce any bumps or texture under your eyes. My derm taught me this and it truly worked.
Agent Nateur Holi(Glow) Ageless Eye Serum – $89 full size
Oh my good God I love this stuff so much. It’s like a cross between a serum, a gel, and a balm and leaves my undereye so hydrated and glowy. In fact, it’s so glowy that you can even use it as a glossy highlight! The only drawback is that the pump dispenses too much product – if I try to use a full pump on my eyes, it is way too much product that doesn’t absorb and looks oily – so I have to very carefully push the pump halfway each time. Oh well, it’s a small price to pay.
…And that’s it. Yep, I only have one eye cream that I can actually endorse after using. The one below is probably a good option, but I haven’t used it.
Nourish Botanical Beauty Luminous Eye Cream* – $9
MASKS + TREATMENTS
Under this category, I am lumping in all of the “every so often” types of products like masks, peels, exfoliators, scrubs, etc. You don’t want to use them everyday because it’s important to respect your skin mantle and allow it to do it’s normal physiological functions unimpeded. Used wisely though, a good treatment can make a huge difference in your skin.
Luzern Au Vin Exfoliating Pads – $80 full size
Listen, a lot of brands do exfoliating pads, and prior to trying these I would have said that they’re all more or less equal. What makes these special and my favorite is that they’re primarily lactic acid, and my skin likes lactic acid over other acids. I like to use these once a week and occasionally more often if I feel a breakout incoming or my skin texture is really dull.
Hebivore Blue Tansy – $48 full size
One of my all-time favorite masks, I have gotten SO. MANY. PEOPLE. hooked on this miracle mask. When my skin was really really bad this was one of the only things I could count on to make it better within a couple days. I don’t know what it is, but my skin loves it. The gentle fruit acids lightly exfoliate without irritating or stripping my skin, leaving my complexion, softer, smoother, and more even. I have four backups because I love it so much.
Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Baby Facial – $80 full size
One of the first chemical exfoliant masks I ever used, Babyfacial is a solid mask. It’s a hair too strong for my skin (25% AHA + 2% BHA is no small dose) so it’s one of the more tingly masks that I have which I don’t *love*, but I make it work. Each time I rinse it off, I’m reminded of why I like it so much: it truly leaves your skin like a baby’s butt. But skip if you have super sensitive skin.
Mahalo The Bean – $80 full size
A newer mask to me, it has quickly risen to one of my top faves, right alongside Herbivore Blue Tansy – multiple backups included. Made with a combo of extracts, herbs, natural exfoliants, and honey, it lightly exfoliates but also provides a mega boost of softening, smoothing, and refining antioxidants. It doesn’t tingle or sting at all, it’s supposed to be worn for at least 20 minutes (so it’s perfect for bath time), and when I rinse it off, I am always surprised by how truly healthy my skin looks and feels.
Pixi BeautifEYE Eye Masks – $24 full size
There are some really popular hydrogel eye masks in clean beauty that for some reason just don’t work for me (my eye turns red and hot and I can’t figure out what ingredient is causing it), so I was pleasantly surprised when these worked for me. Light and refreshing, I like that you can throw them on while doing your hair or eye makeup or even some house work and then come back to brighter, de-puffed eyes.
The Ordinary 30% AHA + 2% BHA Peeling Solution* – $7.50 full size
I have not tried this product but I am going to as I have heard it is an affordable alternative to the Drunk Elephant Babyfacial mask above. Just use with caution and sparingly, as it is a strong acid exfoliating mask and you don’t want to burn your skin or cause unnecessary damage. I would suggest 5 minutes once a week for a few weeks before scaling to 7 and then 10 minutes 1-2 times per week.
Pulsing Facial Rollers – $16 for two
These facial rollers are a great way to stimulate your lymph and thereby decrease any puffiness and increase collagen production. There are a million and one tutorials on YouTube that you can follow for an at home massage using facial roller tools, but I definitely recommend using the one with the two balls along your jaw line. I never realized how much tension I hold in my jaw muscles!
El fin.
Without further ado, I am going to wrap this up. Those are all my favorite skincare items, and I will continue to update this as things change so it will serve as a current reflection of my skincare routine at all times.
Have you tried any of these before? What did you think? Are there any skincare products that you are dying for me to test? Let me know in the comments below.
x
Sarah
